Archive for August, 2010

Get ready, fellow degenerates, I’m about to do something I never thought possible.

I must talk of my distaste of a story celebrating hedonism. Yeah, I know. But, in my defense, hedonism is merely the attractive hook, designed to get me, you, and everyone else to accept an otherwise heinous thing.

Every so often, a bit of detritus from the mainstream sad excuse for art and culture sneaks into my fortress of mediocrity avoidance. A nasty little nugget of lowest common denominator gathers too much praise and adulation to ignore. Otherwise sensible people gush about the grotesque, cleverly hidden beneath a shiny, glossy shell of self-help PR and puffery.

Generally, messages selling the route to self-fulfillment should always be scrutinized. Often, they are about nothing more than fulfillment of the author and publisher’s bank accounts, which, so long as they’re not detrimental to the adherents, can be set aside in the Buyer Beware category and looked at as a bit sad but benign.

But what if the core message is a malignant one, lurking beneath the smiley platitudes? What if it’s a message which encourages selfish and inconsiderate behavior, self-indugence as piety, consumption as cure, vacuous shortcuts to depth, superficial navel-gazing over honest, often painful introspection? Then, would you not think the message being espoused is a potentially dangerous thing?

I have recently been confronted by such a thing … and I’ll admit, it annoys me too much to just ignore it.

That thing is “Eat, Pray, Love”.

You see, there are other vices lurking beneath the shiny, hedonistic surface, nasty vices which must be dragged out into the light of day and exposed. Once we poke even ever-so-gently beneath the outer candy coating, the story behind “Eat, Pray, Love” grows darker and more sinister.

Where shall I begin? There is so much to work with here!

In the effort to keep it all nice and organized, I’ll use one of my very favorite gauges, the Seven Deadly Sins, to sum up the gag-inducing nastiness that is “Eat, Pray, Love”.

Anger:

One can argue that Liz Gilbert’s so-called voyage of self-discovery is one of light and all things good and yummy. I must disagree. If she was so overcome with happy-joy-joy fulfillment objectives, why the need to dredge out her marital dirty laundry for entertainment value (also known as fun and profit)? She could have spared her unceremoniously abandoned ex the embarrassment of having their relationship woes spelled out in no uncertain terms. Apparently, Ms. Liz had a not-so-warm-and-fuzzy axe to grind, perhaps? A little not-to-be-spoken-of at Oprah dish-sessions and bright shiny pep talk book and movie promotions bit of ragey-ragey, perhaps? The end result speaks for itself. Hell, I had plenty of legitimate beefs about life with my ex (also affectionately known as Satan), but you won’t see me dishing about him in print. Bitterness is not a path to enlightenment I’ve ever heard of … but maybe that’s just me.

Envy:

It is not uncommon for well-off, uninspired vanilla folks from the McMansion set to feel their spiritual and cultural lives are somehow less-than compared to the humble people darker than melba toast on the other side of the globe. (People, I might mention, who often are economically victimized by the very same sorts of people in trade and corporate greedhead culture … though that’s another vice for another day.) Ms. Liz envied the humble brown people their simplicity, their heart-felt spirituality, their self-awareness (much like shoppers of Anthropologie – catalog front shown- envy them their “native” look). So much so, she felt compelled to co-opt them for herself, taking their real beliefs for her self-help juggernaut to be that shining image for other uninspired vanilla folk to envy.

There is also a very unattractive envy of the storied mid-life crisis at play here. I see, among most apologists for “Eat, Pray, Love”, a palpable sentiment of, “If men can have a mid-life crisis, so can we!” So dedicated to this notion are they, the thought never seeps in that, should a man have lived this story, they’d be throwing rocks instead of kisses at the author.

Gluttony:

Well, duh. That’s like shooting fish in a barrel. I’ll save the words for more interesting targets.

Greed:

Now we’re talking! I mentioned the Ms. Liz juggernaut just above. The fans of Liz might be outraged a bit at this, but I think they’d be starting on a path toward what can lead to inconvenient truths. It is not discussed in the movie, but guess how Liz Gilbert funded the trip which “inspired” the book? Right you are, my clever sinners, according to several articles readily available online, Liz Gilbert paid for the trip with the advance for the book! This is, of course, a rather pretty pass in the mythology of her journey of self-discovery. If we know she had already gotten the advance, we know she couldn’t very well have returned from her tri-nation romp without some gems of self-awareness to share, don’t we? It makes the whole exercise ring a bit hollow, doesn’t it, a self-awareness conveniently appearing on cue and in time for a deadline? Also makes the author feel a bit greedy to me, cashing in, as well as priming the cash pump in advance, on the “recovery” from a relationship she abandoned.

Lust:

Also, much too easy. Beside, lust is generally a fine and noble thing I endorse whole-heartedly!

Pride:

Not only is there a bit of an annoying, “Look at me! I’m such a good person!” in “Eat, Pray, Love” and its self-congratulation of Liz Gilbert’s success in becoming a happy person by the *ahem* oh-so-road-less-traveled route of going to beautiful and exotic places to relax, eat lots of food, and fuck. Wow! What an arduous time that must have been and how wonderful for her to have managed to find her happy place through massive amounts of self-indulgence! There is also the self-absorbed navel-gazing which inevitably goes hand-in-hand with this breed of memoir. Sure, at some points Liz Gilbert is actually aware of other people outside her bubble of self-satisfaction, sometimes even doing nice things for them. But, ultimately, it is all about Liz.

Sloth:

This is the one which irks me most of all, the thing which really made me want to dedicate a column to why we should not be celebrating this brand of hedonism and recognizing it for the bad-penny vice it is. There is none of the real hard work in coming to the journey, much less the happy ending. Let’s call it what it is: Laziness across the board. Liz Gilbert wanted a lush, lazy vacay in exotic places. She wanted self-awareness without all the icky gut-wrenching work. She wanted spirituality without actually having to commit mind and spirit, instead just racing off to the lazy-(wo)man’s shortcut to it … find nice brown people to meditate with. Hell, even her voyage plan is intellectually lazy and suffers a lack of effort toward creative vision.

I know many people will tag me as bitter because I have expended time and effort to be critical of Liz Gilbert’s supposed masterpiece. But, you know what? It’s worth it to me if just one person is able to avoid this ugly paean of self-congratulation and discover a better, more helpful book or moving, intelligent film instead.

False virtue is a vice I just can’t get behind.

This month’s featured Virgo is Brian Constantine of Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab: master perfumers of the highest order who create the most unique and sophisticated scents, anywhere.

Brian is a quintessential Virgo, as described in loving detail by his lifelong friend and business partner, Elizabeth Barrial.

“Brian is my business partner. If I’m the heart and spirit of the company, he is certainly the head and hands. Brian leads the manufacturing and production half of Black Phoenix, and along with Jacquelynn (our general manager, also a Virgo), he is in charge of our manufacturing chain. He ensures the scents I create successfully reach our customers. Everything which is organized and sensible about Black Phoenix can be attributed to Brian’s efficiency, Mercurian quick-thinking, and organizational skills. Without him, we’d be ideas without form, and he is an invaluable part of Black Phoenix. His talent with scents is astounding as well, and his contributions to our catalogue have included many fragrances in the Ars Draconis series, as well as Blood Amber, Schwarzer Mond, and one of our Blue Moon interpretations.

I think the essence of Black Phoenix’s aesthetic is a marriage of Piscean, Virgoan, and Libran sensibilities. I think BPAL’s sense of irony, the company’s incredibly high standards of quality, and our dedication and loyalty to our customers are certainly some of BPAL’s Virgo qualities; I also think that much of our company’s aesthetic is touched by the passion and darkness often overlooked in the Virgo’s personality, and it manifests in our work. Virgos are usually pigeonholed as hypercritical, grumpy worrywarts who are obsessed with organizing their closets. The poetry of a Virgo’s soul is woefully underestimated, as is their ability to understand and express profound, sometimes terrible, realities of nature and the human condition. While many other signs in the zodiac are credited more often with producing great artists, Virgo also encompasses a tremendous number of staggering talents. Leo Tolstoy, Upton Sinclair, Leonard Cohen, Joe Perry, Nick Cave, Diamanda Galas, Elvis Costello, BB King, Chrissie Hynde, Peter Sellers, Jacques-Louis David, HG Wells, Ken Kesey, Goethe, DH Lawrence, and Roald Dahl are some great examples of the complexities and somber beauty of Virgo artistry. Almost every single Virgo I’ve ever known has had an amazing sense of humor, and I think this manifests through BPAL as well. We never take ourselves too seriously.”

Many thanks and much love to Elizabeth and to all the folks at Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab. …and now, for your Forest-scopes. Enjoy!

Aries

Don’t worry, you haven’t lost your balls; you’re just uncharacteristically laid back, these days. It won’t last long. After the 14th, you’ll be feeling like your old, impetuous self again, with a particularly keen appetite for the lascivious. And why not? These last couple of weeks have been so chock full of hearts and flowers … it’s high time to balance things out with some whips and chains.

Taurus

You’re perfectly poised on your royal throne to receive a veritable parade of adoring suitors from across the lands. But, before you go running credit checks, take a moment to see the bigger picture: who are they? What do they admire in you? Do you want that kind of attention? Building and growing a relationship is a central theme for you, this month. Re-assess your own methods before sorting the frogs from the princes/ses.

Gemini

Now that you’ve survived nearly two years of cosmic ass-kicking, do you finally have your black belt? If not, the Universe has plenty more whoop-ass where that came from. Early in the month, you feel overshadowed by other people’s massive egos. After the 11th however, you seem to have found your voice, again. Maybe you’ll finally figure out how to fight smarter, not harder.

Cancer

This month for you comes in like a lion and out like a total pussy. The first few days are electric: intense, emotional and all about you. After that, well … it’s kind of like being a former child star. No one seems to recognize your awesomeness, except you. Chin up, Crabby. You’ve got bigger things ahead of you than a guest spot on Dancing With the Stars.

Leo

Check your batteries, you seem to be low on power. When’s the last time you got some serious R and R? Being ultra-fabulous is hard work and you may think you’re invincible but, sometimes even you need to slow down. Spend a quiet weekend at home, cleaning out your closets or reorganizing your fan mail. You’ll be back to your customary level of ferocity by the 22nd.

Virgo

Happy Birthday to the only sign who can fix it, even if it ain’t broke! Mercury spends some extra time pacing back and forth through your domain, this month. That’s okay, he appreciates your extra-tidy homestead. Use this time to reinvent your superstructure: does your daily routine support your master plans for world domination? You could always use a few more sharks with frikkin’ lasers on their heads.

Libra

You’ve got Mars, Venus and Saturn all juicing up your sun sign for the better part of the month. Use this time to magnetize the right people for business, for love, for whatever you need as long as it’s a collective endeavor. Isolation will not serve you. Declare your needs, loudly and proudly. No one can help you if they don’t know what the fuck you want.

Scorpio

The sleeper must awaken! In other words, your secret strategies are finally ready to be unleashed upon the unsuspecting populace. The results may not look exactly like you thought they would but, nothing ever does. Release the need to know everything ahead of time. That‘s no fun. When Mars moves into your sun sign on the 14th you’ll notice your sexual tastes lean toward the dark and dirty. More so.

Sagittarius

You realize the guiding star of your life is transforming right before your very eyes. Does that mean you’ve been wrong to follow it all this time? No, not really. It just means the more you learn, the less you really know. Try to loosen up on those pre-conceived notions of yours. They’ve gone way out of style.

Capricorn

Fair is fair. Sometimes blind Justice wields a mighty, two-handed bastard sword. But, this time it’s more of a gentle, soft flogger. Your stoic, pragmatic mind is titillated, this month by a series of unexpectedly tender personal encounters. You might even have … wait for it … a feeling! Don’t panic. It will pass.

Aquarius

You’ve been cultivating an amazing capacity for patience. Thing is … that’s going to mean regular and repeated interactions with annoying assholes. Well? How else do you expect to get better at being patient? You find yourself at exactly the right place at the right time between the 10th and the 14th while those around you are tossed about in the maelstrom. Stay silent and still, lest you be dragged down with them.

Pisces

Jupiter, your traditional ruling planet, moves back into your sign on the evening of the 8th, giving the Old Philosopher a more gentle and benevolent quality than he‘s had since June. Then, worlds collide around the 18th as the mundane realm of daily life comes face to face with the lofty ideals toward which you strive. You have come to a crossroads. Choose wisely.

About Forest

click to view full size

London Edge is one of our favorite trade shows, being one of the first, and the largest, exhibitions dedicated solely to the “alternative” clothing niches. This year the convention will be taking place September 5th-7th in London, UK and our reps will be there showcasing all the latest Lip Service styles!

This is a trade show, so the public is not allowed, but if you are there – please come say hi! We’d love to meet you!

Wednesday 13 and Drew Bernstein at Original Cult HQ

Joey Jordison told Kerrang! Magazine last month that he and Wednesday 13 (aka Joseph Poole) have officially reunited the Murderdolls and are working on a new album with Producer Chris “Zeuss” Harris.

If this wasn’t cool enough, we got a visit from Wednesday 13 at the Original Cult headquarters in Downtown Los Angeles this week! We made sure to send  him back into the world fully geared in all things Lip Service and Kill City.

Gotta say, some days we love our jobs even more than we already do!

It’s time for Fall styles to start adding some new spark to our wardrobes. But your desktop can wear the hottest new Lip Service groups before anyone!

To use:
Galleries are set up (Left to Right) with sizes (in pixels) 1280 x 1024 | 1024 x 768 | 800 x 600. Select the appropriate size from the gallery, then use the Full Size icon to view the entire graphic and right click on the image to “Save As”

Pin Me Up

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Dead-Nation

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Step In Time

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Cyber Sniper

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Brocade Piracy

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Keep your eyes peeled for the next set of dowloads for your laptop and devices!

Jessie: Chad Cherry and I (respectively) have both seen our share of poo and glamor when comes to independent industry. While he is focused mainly in music, we share common ground when it comes to ye olde moving picture. Today we would like share with you some of our experience and (God help us) wisdom from working on sets.

Chad Cherry: Filming a The Last Vegas Music Video

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Chad: Working on music videos is something I’ve been doing since I started playing Rock-n-Roll. If you have a great song, you gotta to have a great video. Or just a bucket full of money to make a crappy song seem cooler then it really is on screen. Entertainment = Smoke and mirrors, so making videos and movies can get extremely expensive. After running around the block a few times, learning the ropes, and spending money on everything and everyone that has nothing to do with the project in the works (“Why did this ripped up black t-shirt cost $300 again?.. And why are there 50 people standing around on the set getting paid to look at boobs and text message their twitter friends?”), you learn fast.

I found the key to any form of good media isn’t just putting a ton of dough into an art form to make it sing. It helps sometimes (most of the time) and depends on what you’re going for, but my point is: If you have the right team that’s on the same page and believes in your vision, well, then you have a leg to stand on. Look at greats such as John Carpenter, who has used most of the same actors in his films, or amazing rock bands who have used the same producer on all their records. They all understand what needs to be done to make it happen. But here’s the bottom line. If your script or song is already amazing, your best weapon will be your imagination.

Some of the best albums and movies have been done on nearly shoe string budgets but have had phenomenal impact. Shunned at first maybe because the ideas of their creators were too ahead of their time. Then the dust settles and you have a cult classic. If you truly believe in what you’re doing, the results will speak for themselves.

This is a subject that is completely in the Nos court (She is the Goddess of Gore ya know kiddies) and I am working my way more towards the evil eye of motion pictures like she does, but I do have some stills from my video shoots from the past. I like it spooky.
We are here for your entertainment … And to scare the living daylights out of you!!! That’s the way you like it.

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Nos: Filming Horror Movies

Nos: The desire to make movies has always been inside of me.

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I’m a very eclectic person and being on a film set tends to fulfill all my artistic interests at once. In my “early years” this enthusiasm got the best of me and I tended to take on more than I should have on sets. But in the end, taking on so much taught me how to really get things done and gave me the confidence I needed to do my own projects. Filmmaking is one of those things you can’t really learn in school … I mean, sure, you can go to a fancy film school and they can teach you technical things, but the real filmmaking comes from the gut. You either have it or you don’t. The only way to find out is to be on set. You’re not going to start out as a famous director, you have to pay dues. This might mean you might do unglamorous work and not get thanked. Even when you reach some level of success, you’re still not guaranteed anything.

At this point you might be thinking, “Fuck this!” or you might be shaking your head thinking that I’m over-exaggerating. But if you’re the type of person who doesn’t scare easy and this is stuff you already know … read on:

If you want to make movies (or model, or write, or make music, or go to the moon) just get off your butt and do it! Seriously! No one is going to do those things for you … and no one is going to “discover” you if you’re sitting in your room eating potato chips and playing video games all day.  None of this is easy but must of it is worth it.

I’ve never once regretted any experience I’ve had on a film set. Believe that sometimes it gets rough … like when you’re shooting outside under what the weather man calls “arctic conditions” or when a lead actor bails 48 hours before a shoot and you’re the one who has to step into his spot. But these are the things that also make it fun! You never know just how something will play out and you have to be quick to think of a solution when it starts to fall apart.

Professionalism also goes a long way, too. You never know who’s connected to who or who’s going to grow and be what … so it’s not in your best interest to act like a twat. You should always seek out the person who knows more than you and learn from them. You’ll grow so much faster that way and impress people with your ability to learn new things. When their next project comes along and needs crew or talent, they’ll always remember the person who was level-headed and receptive on set.

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WHAT WE’VE BEEN UP TO:

Chad: Summer time rolls and I’m happy to inform you freaks TLV will be in the studio to record a full-length album at the end of August. That’s right, you heard it here first creeps. And you’re not going to believe what we are up to. But you will find out soon …www.thelastvegas.com Oh, and buy some Lip Service clothes… You will look better then you already do… (Ya Right haha)… I didn’t write that… The Devil made me do it.  Chad Cherry XXX

Nos: After a summer out on the road, I’m back at the home base and sorting through a big stack of photos for my website, GoddessOfGoreNos.com I’ve obtained a nifty new wallet AND discovered a theater that plays first run movies for $4.75.  This may be the best end of summer yet …

Yes, you read right! We’ve hit 10,000 fans on Facebook and, since we couldn’t have done it without you, wanted to say thanks in the best way possible … with a killer 15% discount on Lip Service gear!

Here are the details:
- To get your discount code, join us at facebook.com/LipServiceCult.
- Discount code is valid from Monday, August 23 until 11:59 PM (Pacific) Wednesday, August 25
- Code must be entered in the promo box at checkout
- Code is not applicable to pre-sale orders

And, this is not the end, you awesome Fashion Freaks … not by a long shot!

We’re already plotting out even better goodies to shower you all with gushy thanks for the next milestones. So, don’t stop inviting your friends to join us and we’ll be able to pass those goodies along even sooner!

Thanks again, everyone, for helping us get there! You ROCK!

Singapore. Perhaps you think of a squeaky-clean, Southeast Asian utopia where it’s illegal to chew gum. Ah, but how darkness brews under the surface! I interviewed Saito Nagasaki, chairman of Singapore Dark Alternative Movement, about Singapore’s Gothic fashion and nightcrawling scene. It’s strong, vibrant, and I’m personally dying to check it out.

(The first two photos are by Razor Razin Photography; the rest are by Shirley Zhong Photography.)

La Carmina: How did you first become interested and involved in Goth / underground subcultures?

Saito:  I first became involved in subcultures when, unbelievably, I was entranced by the music of British group Manic Street preachers in my adolescence around 1996. I was studying abroad in Perth and the depth and breadth of such lyrics pushed me to explore my then-conservative musical boundaries and its related ideas. This eventually lead to my discovery of Garbage, Marilyn Manson, NIN and sideways to foreign language dimensions such as Dir En Grey, Malice Mizer and to increasingly niche genres. I came back to Singapore for National Service and was already part of the local ‘hang out group’ back in Far East Plaza with the pioneering batch of alternatives in Singapore… however the concept of ‘underground’ culture was always stigmatized as being rebellious teenage-esque tripe and not given much credit on our own shores. What I was a part of then was little more than a common aesthetic and the public perception disgusted me. I only developed on the cultural front when I met some really interesting people with resistant views of society on campus when I was back in Australia for university (much later on in 2003) that spoke to my inner curiousity and motivation to change fundamental perspectives. They brought me to attend Dominion, one of the larger Gothic events in the state and I was in love with the people, the atmosphere and the very structure of their community. It was then that I swore I would re-create some semblance of this glory when I returned to my home country.

La Carmina: Can you tell me about the Singapore Dark Alternative Movement and its work?

Saito: The Singapore Dark Alternative Movement (SDAM) is the culmination of alot of hopes and dreams back in the late 90s to form a social platform as a means to build solidarity among the alternative subcultures in Singapore. SDAM actually had its roots in 1998, April 10 from a loose gathering of like-minded individuals (mostly Gothic) that gathered at the only alternative apparel shop at the time, Lost Soul. The owner of Lost Soul, Sand Chai is generally regarded as the pioneer of the community and held in matronly regard as the creator of what would be the common ancestor of various splinter groups to come. Groups like the now defunct Singapore Gothic Covenant (led by Christopher Choy) and our sister community, SGdomsubs (currently helmed by Master Alex) that cater towards the SM oriented populus.

It was through a lot of informal activity and purely social interactions that bred the initial batches of supporters. It was around 2004 that I emerged as a driver of change to push the community from a very insular and elitist sect to a more grassroots and expansionist initiative. This was about the time when the acronym ‘SDAM’ was created and what was to come was modelled from my experiences abroad in western-gothic communities such as the Perth Order of Gothic Societies, starting with my creation of a operating committee to more effectively tackle functional areas. As the numbers swelled and the social networking phenomenon blossomed, we drew upon some of my professional experience to create various event Brands to address several functions: Find closet cases that subscribed to the music, but not the culture and recruit them into the community, expand the awareness of the local alternative community to Singaporeans and the greater southeast Asian sphere and to destroy harmful stereotypes of the culture that are ingrained in the national mindset.

Some of the brands we came up with were: the Alternation series, that became the longest running alternative music night in Singapore. The Dark Friday series, that put the community on the global gothic map with guest sets from international exponents like Eskil Simonsson of Covenant, Angelspit, DJ Panic (Resident of Slimelight) and even the likes of DJ Mini from Montreal, Canada. Outbreed, an annual ‘Gothic rave’ concept I imported from my freelance promoter days in Perth. And Finally and most recently, the Heart of Darkness series that focused more on local talent and formed a staple in the local gothic social diet on a monthly cycle up till our host venue was closed. Our next project “Necropolis” is a smaller, pub based event that incorporates a large amount of deathrocker and psychobility elements. Necropolis is due to launch on 18th September at Pardis (67 Boat Quay). We keep archives of the events on our website - www.sdam.sg – and our community facebook group.

Of course we have had our share of stereotypes from a uneducated public, but the sheer quantity of controlled mainstream media exposure, coupled with accessible events has made a lasting impression locally. Additionally, we discovered that generation Y did not take kindly to labelling themselves anything, i.e.: Goth, punk, metal, etc due to the advent of social networking and the incumbent Singapore dichotomous mindset (we have to be one person at work/school and another in our social lives all the time) – because of this, I coined ‘Singapore Dark ALTERNATIVE movement’ rather than ‘Singapore GOTH movement’ as it would pigeonhole everyone involved.

Recently I have handed the torch over to one of the Generation Y enthusiasts and committee member from the my last term ‘in office’, Dalsix Visser. It is my belief that it is in the best interest of the movement to contemporize with a progressive attitude. I will, however, be taking a page from Singapore’s patron LKY, remain in an advisory capacity for the fledlging new leadership to benefit from my industry connections and experience. I was thoroughly lucky to have the support of a few diehard committee members such as Faith, Murderfreak, Lyn, Vanessa, Nevar, Alex, Simone and allies like DJ Mentor and Syvester Henry and many many more that saw SDAM through to today.

I’m now more focused on my band Aesgrade (www.myspace.com/aesgrade) and am continuing as the host of “Taste of Darkness” on Mesh radio (www.meshradio.sg). It’s actually been a bit of a relief to be able to get my head into music again as creative expression is never very far from my heart. My band especially began as a fun project with a like-minded enthusiast (zero One) who had leanings towards dance music. Through my network we got signed by label Paternoster and published by Netmanagement in Hamburg, Germany and will be releasing a CD soon… if our cards are played correctly. To date I’ve had two live performances in the capacity of the project, one of which was in the middle of Mandai, a forested area near the night safari in an botanic/orchid garden.

La Carmina: How would you describe Gothic fashion in Singapore? How has it evolved?

Sait: Oh yes the fashion has moved on a bit from its initial interpretation of Victorian and a misunderstood quasi leather punk look - much of the fashion was a bit of an adaptation to what some of the senior members brought back from trips to America, Japan and Australia (myself). Recently we had one DJ Ghoul join us from the Netherlands and this has also brought in some interest in the deathrocker vibe. Of course there are the hardliners that still hold their candles morbidly against the daybreak, fighting all attempts to evolve the lamentable ‘classic local style’ of band T-shirt and jeans. Popular brands include Demonia & New Rock boots, Dark Angel, Alchemy Gothic and *cough* imported Hot Topic. There is even a few crossovers with Lolita labels such as Baby the Stars Shine Bright (BSSB) as well. The cyberpunk look is the most compatible with our climate and seems to be the mainstay of the regulars in the events with hair extensions, mesh tops and spiky accessories.

La Carmina: Can you recommend some Singapore Goth clothing brands, designers and shops?

Saito: Rather amazingly, there is very little local exponents for original Goth fashion. A lot of DIY goes on by modifying existing commercial apparel – however a couple of local designers that appeal to the archetype such as perfect in black and even retail giant Nautica. Lique Vanique, one of our former committee members has started a couture design too.

Some of the shops I highly recommend visiting are Haru (Far east plaza #03-42/46, shop 3 & 6), Black Alice (a lot of Lolita apparel), Lips (#03-08, Orchard Road, 228213, Singapore ), Wizard of Oz (for stompy boot needs!) and Dark Angel (they once had a warehouse store in Singapore, but have maintained friendships with our members, Fantasy and medieval wear including Corsetry and couture).

Music and culture wise, there is an overlap in interest with artistic Noise/electro centred around Flux us (www.flux-us.com.sg), nationalistic X’Ho (www.xhosux.com) and several awesome local alternative bands such as Cosmic Armchair (synthpop), Dualtone (industrial), Meza Virs (gothic metal) and Strobe like a butterfly (industrial rock).

La Carmina: What do you predict for the Goth / BDSM scene in Singapore? Is it growing, changing?

Saito: With the changing face of the gothic and BDSM culture globally, Singapore is not too far behind Europe because the new breed of members are better at importing foreign concepts, keen to share ideas and are increasingly well educated. I saw local community through its infancy and with heavy heart have witnessed a lot of former enthusiasts ‘go vanilla’ to better fit into their work places and social circles. However, there is an undercurrent that we have ignited and even sleeping bats have nostalgia enough to kill their civilian disguises in time to come. We had a lot of the teens growing into their adulthood and have began to assimilate with other subcultures, cross-polinating the length and depth of the entire spectrum. It is my belief that the separate scenes here don’t have enough critical mass to explode into their own ecosystems yet (particularly in Asia, which is juxtaposed with Western countries in that they have highly polarized subculture leanings) and I’m proud that SDAM provided a firm basis for a lot of would-be exemplars of their individual style and expression. In the next five years we might actually see a different alternative evolutionary tangent, one that has rationalized its very visual roots to a more cerebral and diversified mindset. Such a community would spawn versatile individuals who can be underground/Goth while wearing the mantle of popular culture, to KNOW that they are alternative with no reservation and to proactively pursue all related interests bravely without fear of reprisal while enriching the totality of Singapore society that hosts them.

A thousand thanks to Saito for the eloquent and fascinating interview! We’ll be exploring Gothic fashion and subculture in Korea, Australia and Russia next… what would you like to see? I’m always happy to hear your comments on my blog: www.lacarmina.com/blog (I’ll be posting more Tokyo Gothic Lolita store photos, nightlife and footage from my current TV shoots there.)

† Dark Wishes †
LA CARMINA

Hi Everyone,
You’re in for a treat with this month’s Design and Daggers because we’re giving you an exclusive sneak peek at the Spring ’11 stylegroups. We’ve been working hard the past 3 weeks, are pumped to show them off at the trade show this week, and wanted to let you in on on a few secrets, too!

Step in time
This time, beyond all the elaborate and elegant pieces, we have daytime tanks and tees. As always, they’re inspired by the beauty of our fashion past.

Millennium Moon
This group has a Tribal, futuristic aesthetic with inspired by the artwork of Luis Royo. Knit pieces are accented with add-on vinyl/ rubber “shell” pieces to build on the look with special reflective ink and trims throughout!

Python Addiction
Rock out in all-over snake print rocker looks! This one is for all you ROCKSTARS!

Fashion Victim
Wearable tanks and tees with brand new badass custom graphics.

Jardin Noir
Sweet and pretty gothic Lolita styles inspired by the French coutryside.

Broken promises
Dia de los muertos (Day of the dead) inspired prom/cocktail group, featuring black skull buttons, black beads, and black rosettes.

Immortal Coil
Based on inspiration from vintage lingerie with a fetish update, the group is split into two sections, girdle mesh pieces (which resemble latex), and hard pieces made of rubbery vinyl and file, with thick, exposed metal boning. The motif running through the group is using triangles and diamonds (in the form of topstitching) to shape the body, suspender clips, and lacing with grosgrain ribbon.

Look for these hot new groups plus NEW Patent Vinyl, Gangsta Pranksta, Looks that Kill, and Fash-ist Fishnet SOON!

We are also all ears for summer or fall groups, ideas and suggestions. Use your imagination and <a href=”mailto:designers@theoriginalcult.com”>let us hear from you</a>.

Thanks! From Lacey and the Dagger Designers

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The Plague Widow

Story by Dan Barrett who shares my love of woodcuts, dark ambient, cathedrals and “evil stuff.

NOTE: This story is best accompanied by the music of Raison d’etre. Or something “sad and evil”.

Oro supplex et acclinis, I meekly and humbly pray,

Cor contritum quasi cinis: my heart is as crushed as the ashes:

Gere curam mei finis. perform the healing of mine end.

The somber cerulean abyss of night rose to veil the dying bouquet of oranges and reds painted in the twilight sky. The last drops of the day’s storm were lightly dancing atop dark puddles, shadowed by the massive archway overhead. The cathedral towers stretched high above, piercing the gathered clusters of fog, toward unseen heavens. In the most distant and obscured spire, the bells slowly rang out seven dissonant chimes to sullenly acknowledge the hour. The ringing was to fall on my ears alone. In withered hands I carried the remembrance wreath of violet stargazer lilies. From deep within the abandoned walls of the grand edifice I could hear, in infinite faintness, the ghost choirs on the breath of the wind. From the steps I gazed out into the vast, crumbling cemetery where my village now slept.

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Three years ago, the black plague ravished my town, crippling and debilitating its denizens. After days, or even weeks, of agonizing suffering, the body would eventually expire. My children, my husband, and my acquaintances all perished that autumn. Everyone I had ever known had been obliterated in the course of a single season. Now, I was the town’s widow, eternally damned to unrequited mourning. I was left, each day, to dress the headstones of the children with memorial wreaths and utter hymns directing the wandering souls to solitude and salvation, to stroll the mausoleum of my deceased community, offering quiet prayers of bereavement. I am a specter who walks among deserted ruins and clandestine ghosts on this lost highway with no end. For I was the first victim of the plague and my desolation is that of death. And so, I am cursed in this nonexistence to never again be with the ones I loved.

Requiem æternam dona eis, Domine :
et lux perpetua luceat eis.
In memoria æterna erit iustus,
ab auditione mala non timebit.

Turning something like “The Great Pestilence” into a fashion statement is, in this humble (ahem…) blogger’s opinion, the very essence of goth. Okay, maybe not modern PC goth, where people get up in arms about everything under the fucking sun. I got into it because I like “evil stuff”. No, this is not up for discussion.

However…

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We’re sort of going to skip all those super creepy plague doctor bird masks (did I mention how creepy I think those fucking things are?), smelly rags, and gangrene-inspired makeup in favor of loosely Victorian influenced styles. Because those Victorians had mourning down to a science.

Is my take on it not OG enough for you? Looking for something with a little more authentic 14th century diseased European peasant flair to it? Then by all means, please DO stop bathing, attack a potato sack with scissors and start wearing THAT everywhere you go. The debilitating illnesses will follow naturally. Oh, wait; we don’t do panhandling-by-choice “crust punk” around here. I forgot.

Inspiration list: Woodcuts, bubonic plague, dark ambient, Catholic fetishization of pain, sadness, the National Cathedral in DC, Gregorian monk chants, my sick obsession with building an outfit around that black and white skirt.

But especially dark ambient.

With that out of the way, ladies, may I have your attention please…

Ruffled shirts lend the appearance of having a more voluminous chest area.

Added benefit aside, the Blacklist Core #49-237 Long Sleeved Ruffle Dress Shirt in the blood colorway is one of the most ultimate layering staples a goth girl can have in her ever expanding closet. Pair with a black underbust to get that effortlessly put together look in literally, a cinch. Oh and it also

• Sweetens up a business suit (although you’ll want to tuck it into your pants).
• Takes the school marm/food service worker factor out of a basic black vest.
• Looks simply striking with a well tailored simple black blazer.
• Puts the FUN back in funeral.

Show your ribcage without sacrificing tasty noms for the rest of your life with a medically inspired cameo underbust. I’m 100% okay with wanting to look mortally ill. But I’m not down with keeping it real enough to actually get there.

All the X-ray corset action not giving you any sartorial mourning wood? Try this adorable lacy number from the eerily appropriately named Victorian Mourning line in the black colorway.

Creeped out by the mere thought of sportin’ some post-mortem locks attached to a jet brooch much like our Victorian friends did? In that case my squeamish comrade, it seems like a lone black silk flower pinned against your throat might just be more up your alley.

Pay penance to the fashion gods (or 80s Madonna) by accessorizing with a rosary, if you wish. I quit Christianity somewhere in the neighborhood of age 10, but can’t help but be drawn to all the trappings of Roman Catholicism (that I didn’t care about as a kid). It’s so full of anguish, misery, martyrdom and torture. And Catholics totally win at architecture. AND I FUCKING LOVE MUSIC THAT IS MOSTLY MADE UP OF LATIN REQUIEMS AND GREGORIAN MONK CHANTS!

Oh and you’re not TRULY IN THE THROES OF AGONY, until you hide behind a long black veil. It’s all about showcasing your sadness in the most flamboyant manner imaginable. Still confused? Study Robert Smith‘s every move. Only then will you posses the ability to mope with the best of them.

The time of Tim Burton being a relevant, edgy and innovative movie director may have come and gone, but those black and white vertical stripes are here to stay. Not to say that Tim Burton like, invented that shit, because clearly he did not, but I’ll be damned if I don’t call black and white vertical stripes, “Tim Burton stripes”. Long story short , this darkly romantic Victorian bustle skirt vaguely reminiscent of one of Christina Ricci’s party dresses in Sleepy Hollow adds instant sophistication to almost any get-up. Regardless of what crap old Timmy churns out next.

Conquering Coral (that’s right, kids it ain’t just for yo’ gran’ma Tilly anymore)

When I say “coral”, what’s the first thing that pops into your head? Perhaps the shade of paint one would use to spruce up the walls of a Floridian retirement home? An “edgy” hue of nail polish the 55+ set can rock on their toes while vacationing in Myrtle Beach? Makeup advice plucked directly from the pages of some yawn inducing blander-than-a-Michael Bolton-concert mainstream fashion magazine? Cause, yeah, that’s kind of what I think of. In many instances, yes, it IS the elevator music equivalent of the color world. Alas, an unexpected burst of coral offsets the tried and true smoky eye (favored by Goths AND porn stars worldwide) in a way which flatters both light and dark skin tones. It ensures that mournful “Oh the suffering…the torment……the unbearable pain” gaze you’ve been practicing in front of the mirror so diligently doesn’t go unnoticed under those layers of tulle obscuring your face. And hey, in case you do fuck up, you’re hidden behind the safety net of the mourning veil. Because, yes, smearing your eyeliner truly IS something to bemoan for all eternity.

Death and coral … TWO things we’ve reclaimed from the elderly in ONE frivolous fashion post. Next month in Lethal Style: Removing those pesky black lipstick stains from your dentures in one simple step.

General Prep Work

You will need:

Moisturizer, Primer, Concealer, Matte liquid Foundation, Foundation Brush, Translucent Powder, Powder brush, Eyeshadow primer

1. Wash your face with a cleanser formulated especially for your skin type. Rinse thoroughly and pat dry with a soft cloth. Prep your skin with moisturizer before applying concealer in order to ensure a smoother, flake-free application.
2. Before proceeding any further, allow your skin to properly absorb the moisturizer. This should take about 10 minutes.
3. Since foundation worn alone often has a nasty habit of settling in the fine lines around your mouth, near your eyes, and on your forehead, I highly recommend using a primer after you’ve moisturized your face. Utilizing a small amount of primer helps to fill in unflattering expression lines, pores, and scars, thus allowing foundation to actually do its job!
4. Nix blemishes and skin discoloration by gently patting concealer over the trouble area. Follow by blending with your ring finger.
5. Apply a matte liquid foundation which best matches your skin tone to your face and neck with a foundation brush (a full dome shaped brush works beautifully). Start by applying small dots in the center of your face and then moving outward.
6. Set everything in place by finishing off with a thin coat of translucent powder. Use a full, round shaped powder brush for optimal results.
7. Prep your lids with eyeshadow primer to neutralize the colour of your lids, which in turn makes for brighter more vibrant shadow. It also prevents said shadow from creasing.

Eyes

You will need:

Rounded edge brush, coral pigment, eyeliner brush, black eyeshadow, small blending brush, matte mid-tone gray eyeshadow, small fluffy brush, matte white eyshadow, black eyeliner, black mascara

1. Using a dampened rounded edge brush, gently tap (DO NOT SWIPE) a coral pigment across your entire eyelid from lashline to crease.
2. Dab a tiny amount of black eyeshadow onto your eyeliner brush and draw a line which follows the natural crease crease of your eye. Making the line as straight and precise as you can is key! Using the same brush, blend the color outward. This technique is called cutting the crease.
3. With the help of a small blending brush, blend matte mid-tone gray eyeshadow up and outwards. Make sure to blend the gray into the black you added to your crease to avoid harsh lines.
4. Highlight your browbone by sweeping some matte white shadow directly under your eyebrows with the help of a small fluffy brush.
5. Line your bottom lid, starting from the outer corner of your eye, slowly making your way toward the inner corner with black kohl eyeliner. Most of the color should be concentrated in the outer corner. I find it’s easiest to put on eyeliner after eyeshadow and before mascara.
6. Curl your eyelashes with an eyelash curler and top off with 2 coats of black mascara.

Cheeks

You can skip the blush if the phrase “healthy glow” strikes terror in your little black heart. Or “pallid plague-stricken corpse” fits more within the parameters of your usual aesthetic.

(Disclaimer: Despite owning contraband such as “pale peach blush” and “bronzer”, it is not my desire to send anyone to a spooky re-education camp. I’m just a fan of playing up all parts of my face)

You will need:

Matte bronzer, pale peach blush, blush brush

1. Swipe some matte pressed bronzer onto your blush brush. Starting mid-cheek, going towards your ear, apply the bronzer into the hollows of your cheeks using short, up-and-down vertical strokes. Darker shades will give the illusion of the hollows of your cheeks receding, which enhances the overall definition of your cheekbones.
2. Using the same technique, add pale peach blush to the apples of your cheeks, which will cause them to protrude. Use translucent powder to blend between the two colors in order to avoid obvious lines.

Lips

As an avid reader of mainstream fashions rags, I can attest to the fact most beauty writers urge us to adhere to some rather strict makeup rules. Ladies curious about bold lip looks are told by these publications they “want to look vampy-NOT like a vampire”. And so we are advised to obey the “play up one feature at a time” rule. In other words, to keep the eyes and cheeks simple when opting for an over-the-top pout. In many cases I tend to agree, since I’ve borne witness to many a raccoon eyed, black-lipstick-on-the teeth trainwreck in my 13 years of gothing it up. So, I often favor the high impact eyes/ultra glossy nude lip look myself. Alas, sometimes it’s more than forgivable to set your makeup gun to “whore”, such as when wearing veiled hats which obscure the majority of your face. Go light on your lips and they’ll simply disappear under all the lace and netting. And so it had come to pass that your smokey eyes and plum lips came to a cease fire and became BFF again.

You will need:

Burgundy lipliner, plum lipstick

1. Use a burgundy lipliner to fill in your lips, starting at the center of your natural lip line and moving toward the outer corners. Filling in your entire lip area will not only make an excellent base for color, but will also prevent your lipstick from traveling past your actual lip line and setting up shop in the tiny fine lines around your mouth. Ever seen that shit? Fucking terrifying!
2. Follow up with plum lipstick. Beginning in the center of your upper lip, gently press the tube into the flesh of your lip and then proceed to roll it over the entire top lip area, working toward the edges. Repeat the process on your bottom lip.
3. Last but not least, remember to prevent potential slippage by placing a finger in your mouth, closing your lips around it and then removing said finger. This will remove any excess lip junk. In this new era of tagged Facebook photos catching everyone by surprise, you never know where your likeness will show up. And when that unflattering inebriated photo DOES surface, the last thing you want is being remembered as a card carrying member of the aforementioned “Raccoon eyed, Dark-lipstick-on-the teeth Trainwreck club” for all eternity. ‘Cause once something is up on ‘em InternetZ, it tends to never go away. So yeah, avoid lipstick-on-the teeth situations at all costs.

Credits:

Photography: Lanya B

Model: Vanity Kills

Location: The National Cathedral is located in Northwestern Washington DC

<3

Vanity Kills

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