Vegan Ghormeh Sabzi + Pistachio Kheer
Monday, September 19th, 2011 by Mich Masoch
This week was my birthday weekend, so we prepared an immense feast of Persian and Indian fusion for a few good friends. The recipes I created for that night will start sneaking into Meatless Mondays over time. I won’t hit you all at once, because there were quite a few. We’ll toss it up with new cuisines in between.
For today, I’ll just give you the biggest successes of the night.
Ghormeh sabzi really should be considered a treasured gift from Iran to the rest of the world. It is one of the sexiest-tasting things you will ever eat. So, of course, I wanted to share it with my vegetarian and vegan friends, too. This recipe skips the traditional lamb and adds a little savory Aleppo pepper to kick up the sexiness. I will tell you up front, though. Persian food is more like a meditation on food than a cuisine. It is some of the best food you will ever eat, but it doesn’t come easy. This is food which requires a bit of patience, being food which was perfected long before modern conveniences were even a glimmer of a seed of an idea. You will not regret the time you spend chopping and mincing or needing to stick around at home for the long-slow cooking process. You will taste every moment in the food.
I’ll confess something to y’all; in all my years of cooking, I’ve always avoided anything which involved boiling milk. The idea of it frothing and bubbling up, maybe scorching, freaked me out. But, since I really wanted a special dessert which had roots and flavor profiles in Indian and Persian cuisines, I finally got myself over the hump to make a batch of kheer (Indian rice pudding).
What got me over, you might ask? A lovely Indian lady named Manjula who has videos on YouTube and a site with her collected recipes calmed my nerves enough to give it a shot. Boy am I glad I did, because her recipe for kheer is one the best things I’ve ever put in my mouth. I skipped the other add-ins and just put ¼ cup of pistachos (because I REALLY love pistachios, especially with saffron), but that’s all the tinkering I did. It’s bloody perfect as is. I would recommend making some as soon as possible.
You can find the recipe on Manjula’s site.
Here’s a good tip for managing kheer: use a flame/heat diffuser (see the photo) if you don’t have a heavy-bottomed pot handy. Also, if you have a kitchen timer, set it for 4 minutes and gently break the skin, stirring while scraping the bottom of the pot with a spatula every time it goes off for about 40-60 minutes … I lost track of time, so added a photo of what the pudding looked like in the pan before I chilled it. I’ve included a pic of the bubbling pot because, though it looks a little dire and panic-inspiring, it’s fine and exactly how it should look. Now that I’m over my irrational fear of boiling milk, I’m looking forward to making this regularly when I have a meal that causes me to be in the kitchen for a while anyway. It’s so good, I already want another bowl … like right now.
Here is the video of Manjula making kheer. Look for her video on making paneer, too. It is, by far, one of the most helpful I’ve ever seen.
Anyway, enough other stuff, here’s the meatless ghormeh sabzi recipe!
Vegan Ghormeh Sabzi
serves at least 6-8
3 TBSP olive oil (replace with ghee for vegetarian – see notes *)
2 small/med yellow onions – minced
1 small red onion – minced
4 cloves garlic – finely minced
at least 2 lbs baby spinach – finely chopped (see notes **)
1 bunch – cilantro – finely chopped
1 bunch – Italian (flat leaf) parsley – finely chopped
2 bunches scallions – finely chopped
2 bunches garlic chives – finely chopped
¼ – ⅓ cup mint – finely chopped (to taste)
1 TBSP turmeric
1 TBSP Aleppo pepper (more if you like spicy … just add near the end so you don’t blow your tongue off when it reduces)
juice of 1 largish lemon
juice of 1 lime
healthy pinch of saffron (20+ threads)
1 cup water
- optional: a few dried limes – pierced (see notes ***)
1 can (14.5 oz) red kidney beans – drained and rinsed
kosher salt – to taste
Step 1: Chop (and chop … and chop … and chop …)
Here is the thing about ghormeh sabzi: it requires a good bit of preparation before starting the cooking process. It’s a good chance to polish the knife skills that much more, right?
Step 2: The base
In a large (heavy-bottomed if possible) pot, heat the oil (or ghee) on MEDIUM and cook the onions sprinkled with a touch of salt until they are almost translucent. This usually takes a little longer with red onions, but the subtly different flavor is worth it. Add the garlic and stir regularly for a few minutes, until it gets fragrant. Add the turmeric and Aleppo and mix well.
Step 3: The green stuff!
Add the spinach and herbs in large handfuls, stirring until the heat starts to wilt the leaves and reduce the volume before adding more. Sprinkle very lightly with salt, but only at the very beginning. (It is VERY easy to over-salt with a dish this much about reduction, so try to keep the salting at a minimum until you’re near the finished volume.) Keep doing this until all the greens are added. Then stir regularly until the greens are cooked down more and have released their liquid. Then add the remaining ingredients, except the kidney beans, and mix well. Allow the liquid to come to a bubble, then reduce to SIMMER, stirring occasionally for at least 2-3 hours. As the liquid cooks down, you will want to stir more frequently to avoid burning.
helpful tip: If you want to taste and adjust seasoning, wait until well into the cooking process. This is a very concentrated stew so, if you add too much too early, it will cook down and be very strong in the final dish.
Step 4: Final touches
About a half hour before serving, add the kidney beans and mix well. Serve over basmati rice (I like to use saffron plus butter and olive oil in the pot, along with a hint of salt when I cook mine.) or with flat bread.
Notes:
* Ghee is shelf-stable clarified butter. If you can get some, it will make a nice flavor difference in the finished dish. It is generally most easily found in Middle-eastern or Indian markets.
** If you go to a Middle-eastern market, you will find what is known as a “pillow pack”, which is a HUGE clear bag, stuffed with spinach. I will weigh one next time I hit the store, but I think it looks like the volume of 4 half-pound bags.
Bear in mind, my volume preference of the balance of herbs may not be yours. Tinker and adjust based on what flavor profile you’d like.
*** Dried limes are traditional in ghormeh sabzi, but hard to hunt down outside Middle-eastern markets and the interwubs. I prefer my stew with a few limes, pierced several times to release more flavor. The Boss does not agree and prefers the taste without. You might want to scare some up and try it if you like the idea of a hint of concentrated savory citrus bite. The taste is hard to describe, but similar to how drying dramatically intensifies the deep, low notes of a chili pepper and softens the sharper ones, but keeps the same general favor. Does that make sense?
Thanks for joining me for another Meatless Monday food experiment. Next time, we’ll go lighter and fresher, but with no less sexy. Until then, enjoy your week!





























































