Posts Tagged ‘fashion’

It’s a dream come true… I’m hosting a coolhunting travel show for Huffington Post / AOL! And guess what I’m wearing in the intro to the first episode? Lip Service – Brocade Piracy dress.

In the first episode, I’m a fish out of water — a Goth girl in Wisconsin. I explore a kitschy theme hotel, complete with a bondage bed!

Will you kindly take a minute to check out my alternative travel show + Like/Share/Tweet it? This will enable me to keep the series going — and keep wearing Lippy on it. The link is: http://t.co/BRQAvIh

La Carmina‘s jetsetting adventures recently took me to Hong Kong, China — also known as shopping paradise. Naturally, I went on a treasure-hunt for Hong Kong’s best Gothic and Lolita shops.

I’ll warn you: there aren’t that many Gothic Lolita Punk shops in Hong Kong. But you can pick up terrific pieces from various Mongkok stalls, to build up a fashion-forward Gothic look. And the prices can’t be beat.

Spider is one of my favorites Gothloli clothing brands. Two sweet sisters run the small Mongkok shop. They design all the fashion, with close attention to detailing, and produce in small runs.

The clothes tend to be on the Gothic Punk side, which suits me perfectly. I love the corset lacing, punk plaids, and frills.

I bought these three items and the rose skirt, and wear them constantly (you’ve probably glimpsed them in my outfit posts). If you’re in Hong Kong and can only make it to one destination, I hope it’ll be Spider. Please say hi to owners Natalie and Queenie for me.

Spider is located at shop 130, King Wah Centre, 628 Nathan Road, Mongkok, Kowloon, Hong Kong (Map) Tel: (852) 2740 9366

Mongkok is my favorite Hong Kong district for shopping. (Take the subway there and explore the Nathan Road area). There are so many little malls that sell bright, alternative, trendy street style — at crazy low prices. Such as:

Argyle Centre Mall, 688 Nathan Road in Hong Kong (map).

This “Gothic Lolita & Punk” store is located at Shop 67, 1F in Argyle Centre. However, Mongkok stalls move around constantly; they’re open one week and closed the next. Instead of worrying about finding specific stores, I recommend exploring at random. You’ll undoubtedly come across alternative fashions.

Mongkok’s clothes aren’t the highest quality (comparable to, say, Forever 21). However, the styles are way ahead of the curve, and prices are incredible: you’ll rarely pay more than $5-15 US for any clothing item.

Hong Kong’s Goth scene is basically nonexistent (there are no club nights or gatherings). However, you can find Gothic/alternative items in the Mongkok mix — such as this jewelry, guarded by Edward Scissorhands.

I could have taken a million photos of Hong Kong shops. Rocking horse shoes; rose rings. (More shopping photos in this Mongkok post.)

Want to learn more about Hong Kong’s Gothloli and kawaii fashion? Check out La Carmina’s Hong Kong Gothic Lolita guide.

What do you think — is Hong Kong shopping heaven? Which items in this post would you most like to own?

Now I’m off to JAPAN, for a new TV hosting job with Food Network… you can see details and Tokyo fashion photos on my blog. Sayonara!

XXX LA CARMINA XXX

http://www.lacarmina.com/

How I longed to attend this year’s Wave Gotik Treffen (largest Goth music gathering in the world)! In early June, SiSEN, G-suS and other spooky friends flew to Leipzig, Germany for the festivities.

I couldn’t make it due to travel and scheduling conflicts… but I’m not complaining. Sebastiano and I were flown to Florence, to take part in Luisaviaroma Firenze4Ever (event for 40 top fashion bloggers from around the world). Naturally, we still wore our Goth-Visual clothes! You can see photos from the cocktail party and styling lab on my blog.

Thankfully, talented photographers Seventh Sin (Jen Hoffert and Holger Karas) were front and center at WGT, and wrote this report on the bands and fashion. Is Lolita on the decline? How is steampunk changing? Keep reading to find out. (All images by Seventh Sin.)

Wave Gotik Treffen 2011 was a special one, as it was the 20th anniversary of a gathering of dark people from all over the world. The percentage of foreigners increases every year; this time, we met people from Japan, China, US, Australia and many European countries. The performing artists also come from all over the globe including a metal band from China. With approximately 50 venues spread throughout Leipzig, people gathered at various far-off places, and so the famous WGT catwalk at the Agra Messepark was sometimes rather deserted.

In addition over 250 bands playing over five days, there were many other things to see and do — including free entrance for WGT visitors to museums, the opera and the symphony. One of the largest cinemas hosted a “Twilight” marathon, and smaller ones played indie films like Goths on the Move. At least two independently-organised art exhibitions took place: SEELENFRESSER Titten + Ärsche + Über-Ich at the Werk II venue and S.C.L.S.: State – Society – Landscapes – Society featuring the work of Laibach and Neue Slovenische Kunst.

Fashion-wise there was no obvious new trends this year, but definitely shifts in the most prevalent outfits. While the whole Lolita theme seems to be decreasing, there is a certain increase in both historical and Victorian dresses as well as Steampunk. The Cyber Goth style seemed to decline at the Agra venue, but this might be due to the fragmentation of the festival into three or more hot spots.

The historical-recreation fraction of the Treffen still is mostly a DIY trend, although there are a few specialty brands available that serve this community. The dresses seem to get more elaborate as over the time the sewing skills increase.

In addition to the labels vending at the market, there were some new, smaller labels handing out advertisements: Dark Fusion Boutique, USA, Royal Black, Austria, and Steampunk II, Elfenrausch, Germany.

The increasing number of Steampunks could be sorted into two categories. There were many people using brands like Lip Service to create their basic Steampunk outfit and then “spicing it up” with custom accessories. Others relied mostly on self made items, sometimes overdoing with props and add ons, although the level of ingenuity in the Steampunk community continues to amaze.

Music was widespread through all genres and there were some extraordinary acts on stage this time. Due to our responsibilities as photographers we couldn’t see them all, but at least we were able to sneak in visits to some of our favorites. (Above: Das Ich, who have played at Midnight Mess in Tokyo.)

In the infamous Moritzbastei I was able to stand at the very front row of a Gothika show.

Andro San gave an amazing performance in his pretty red kimono, while Yoshi was more sexy than ever.

The incomparable Diamanda Galas. (Yukiro reviewed her Swedish performance.)

Another inspiring show was Monica Richards project Infrawarrior, with new musicians and an amazing audio-visual concept with ritualistic influences. The presence of Monica and her main dancer Lucretia was amazing and mind shaking, and fortunately, we were able to capture a visual impression.

Even with a reported 23,000 visitors, Wave Gothic Treffen is still “THE” place to gather and find all of our friends, sometimes without even trying. We literally bumped into many people, including SiSen and G-suS from Tokyo on the opera house steps moments before the doors opened to Diamanda Galas. We saw J-Goth Amiyu a few times, including while crawling home at the end of a wonderful but exhausting five days of dark music, culture and friends.

Thank you to Holger and Jen for the scoop! I recommend that you check out the book Black Celebration – 20 years WGT, edited by Jennifer Hoffert and Alexander Nym, which was presented at several readings. “Black Celebration” is a bilingual (German/English) volume with anecdotes, memories and images from two decades of dark underground culture in Leipzig. Contributing authors include musicians such as Bruno Kramm of Das Ich; the images vary from black and white analog in the nineties to full-color digital photography. Hand numbered copies (limited to 300) are still available, but only directly from the publisher, Ploettner Verlag.

Hungry for more visual inspiration? You can go back in time to my 2009 report about WGT. I also featured Seventh Sin photography in this post about Japan Goth fashion and nightlife.

Many travels ahead… next time, I’ll bring you Global Gothic coverage from Hong Kong and Italy. I also recently released a charity T-shirt line, with proceeds going to help Japan. You can see photos and find out more here. Thanks for supporting!

XXX LA CARMINA XXX
http://www.lacarmina.com/

It’s apt that I write a Global Gothic column for Lip Service, since La Carmina is always travelling. I’m always moving in and out of rooms.

Some people consider temporary accommodations to be poor substitutes for home-sweet-home. I disagree. In Hong Kong, my Roomorama short term apartment immediately filled with warm memories. Such as:

1) Laughing at cheesy pop groups on MTV Asia.
2) Watching horror DVDs late at night — and squirming in fright.
3) Putting away treasures from Mongkok shopping trips in the clever storage space.
4) Drinking bubbly while overlooking the harbor view.

I’m excited to share the Goth fashion and culture I discovered in Hong Kong and Macau. Photos and stories to come next month, as well as on my blog!

I recently joined Lookbook, and realized that many of my favorite outfits (and memories) are tied to my travels. Such as this Seattle library photoshoot, from my trip to the Aural Vampire / Black Veil Brides / Dommin / Birthday Massacre concert. (More photos)

In front of Seattle’s famous bubblegum wall, before the DespairsRay show. I’m wearing a Lip Service steampunk skirt from the Step In Time collection. (More photos)

While in Los Angeles, I did a Blablahospital modeling shoot in the Hollywood Hills batcaves. (More photos)

Harajuku, Tokyo is where my heart is. I wore Baby, the Stars Shine Bright for the Dutch Pepsi filming. (More photos)

This is one of the outfits I wore on the set of NHK’s New York Wave — they filmed a TV documentary about my work in cute cooking. (More photos and info about my book, Cute Yummy Time)

But home is where your cat is! Basil Farrow loves to pose for photos in Vancouver. (More cuteness on his Scottish Fold blog.)

PS: Thank you to fellow Lip Service blogger, Steff Metal, for interviewing me about entrepreneurship for Grymm and Epic.

Got any questions about travel, or the outfits pictured? Email or Tweet me, and I’ll be sure to answer. Or let’s be friends on Facebook?

** Click to add La Carmina on Facebook, or push the button below.

XXX LA CARMINA XXX
http://www.lacarmina.com/

Ciao, Italia! La Carmina has lots of Gothic Globetrotting ahead this year. Sebastiano and I will be in Italy in June… on a sponsored trip! From June 9-11, Seba and I will be special guests at Firenze4Ever III. It’s an extravaganza for top fashion bloggers around the world, presented by designer boutique LuisaViaRoma.

If you’re in Italy with a fellow Lip Service model, you might as well do some traveling, right? Our wonderful friends at Hostelbookers are hooking us up with hotels all over Italy — meaning Seba and I will be in Venice, Rome, Milan and Florence this June.

Of course, the first question on my mind is… what’s Italy’s Gothic scene like? I had the pleasure of interviewing my Twitter friend, Lady Aphasia, about the best Goth shops and parties in Milan. Here are her suggestions.

La Carmina: Tell me a bit about yourself.

Aphasia: I’m a woman in love — in love with my job (events organization), with life and with music. I’ve always lived in Milan, even though I’m half French.

La Carmina: How did you first become interested and involved in Goth underground fashion and subcultures in Milan?

Aphasia: It’s always been so, since I was 14 and I discovered bands like Cure, Bauhaus, Siouxie and so on. Milan it’s a little town compared to London or L.A. but we don’t miss anything if you know where to look for.

La Carmina: Can you tell me how the Gothic scene in Milan originated and evolved? Are there aspects that are distinct to the scene?

Aphasia: I guess it began at the end of eighties, where there was also the punk scene. Milan has been divided in groups: trendy ones, punk, gothic, metal and glam. Even the districts of the town were delineated by these groups. Music from UK and USA was like an overflow, so many discos and alternative pubs opened.

Now it’s a bit different: all alternative peoples meet in a few places, they get along quite well. But there are only a few pubs and discos. Now new wave and gothic has a quite of overlap with other cultures, like industrial.

La Carmina: How would you describe Gothic fashion in Italy?

Aphasia: You should check yourself, it’s very heterogeneous, you can find aristocrat fashion and cyber goth in the same group. During the last few years, Gothic & Lolita has become famous. Unfortunately there aren’t many shops, most of them sell cosplay outfits. You can find goth and loli accessories without many troubles, but for dresses, the web is still the best way.

La Carmina: Has the fashion scene changed a lot?

Aphasia: Yes it is, but because of internet, now you can see and choose clothing, and get input from the foreign scenes.

La Carmina: Can you recommend some Milan / Italy-based Gothic clothing brands, designers and shops?

Aphasia: For alternative shops, goods, clothes etc. you can’t miss Corso Porta Ticinese. It’s a street in the middle of Milan that will bring you to Duomo. This part of the town is where alternatives people meet, and there are many types of shops, low-cost bars and pubs.

La Carmina: What is the Italian Goth clubs scene like?

Aphasia: One of the most important alternative/goth club is the BLACK HOLE. This is my favorite; it’s not in the center of town but not far either. Zoe Club is the bigger alternative club in town. Then there’s the Shelter Club: this one is out of Milan, not easy to reach, but important for dark and new wave culture. Black Circus is good too. At these events, you will see dark, loli, goth, cyber styles all together.

La Carmina: What do you predict for the dark fashion / scene in Milan and Italy? Is it growing, changing?

Aphasia: I love Japanese brands so it’s quite difficult to answer. But things are always changing –  it’s always so, isn’t it?

La Carmina: Thank you, my dark Lady, for the interview. Sebastiano Serafini and I can’t wait to check out Milan’s darkest haunts. As always, I’ll have photos and stories for you on my Goth culture and fashion blog.

Ciao, ciao!
XXX LA CARMINA XXX
http://www.lacarmina.com/

(The first 2 photos are by La Carmina. The last 3 photos in this post are courtesy Shelter Club.)

We’re called the metal army, the horde, the Templars, the warriors of steel, the satanic warmasters, and, by my mother, “those scary, unshaven men you hang out with”. And for good reason. Like any good army, we metalheads have our orders (“go forth and spread metal”), we have our weapons (blistering guitars, pummelling drums and brutal, warlike vocals), and we have our uniform.

The black t-shirt, the jeans, the combat boots, the studs, the leather, the denim. Hair worn long, like a barbarian. The jewelry, talismans of forgotten times and unpronounceable band names. The attitude, devil-may-care. If you want to join the metal army, you’ve got to get the uniform right.

Regulation Metalhead Kit

T-shirt

Nice try, but his shirt breaks the first rule, by not being black.

Every metalhead needs at least this one essential piece of kit. The metal t-shirt comes in every color, as long as it’s black, with the front emblazoned in highly detailed scenes of slaughter, death and destruction, accompanied by the name of a suitably grymm band in letters so large you couldn’t possibly mistake it for a hip-hop act.

The more highly “ranked” you are in the metalhead army, the more underground and unpronounceable the band name on your t-shirt.

And, like any army, there are rules. If attending a concert, you are NOT to wear the t-shirt of the band you are going to see. You are NOT to wear tour shirts from tours you personally did not witness. And you must never, ever wear the shirt of a non metal band to a metal show, unless you are, as we say in New Zealand, “cruisin’ for a bruisin’.”

Boots

These must be tough, able to withstand the rigors of the mosh pit and the repeated forced march to and from the beer tent.

Jeans

Black, blue or stonewash grey jeans. They’re durable, warm and look good on any figure, from a waifish metal princess to the toughest mosh pit monster.

Patched Vest

Sadly going out of style among the younger metalheads, the denim vest lovingly sticked with patches from your favorite bands used to be the marker of a true and serious metalhead.

Belt

Note the presence of gauntlets, bullet belts and inverted crosses

Needed to hold up the jeans. Regulations declare it must be made from leather, ideally from an animal you killed and skinned yourself as part of a satanic sacrifice. Studs and spikes optional, but encouraged.

Belts can also be made of strings of bullets, or, if you’re Max Cavelera from Sepultura, a string of AA batteries taped together. (in the documentary Global Metal, Max admitted that in the early days the band was too poor to afford bullet belts, until Igor pointed out that they could make their own from AA batteries and, from a distance, they looked the same).

Now that’s brutal. As well as looking suitably terrifying, this bullet belt could come in handy if your Walkman breaks down in the middle of the Brazilian rainforest.

Non-regulation items:

Gauntlets

Leather vambraces around the wrists or forearms, usually studded with studs or six-inch spikes.

Dog tags

The metal horde assembles

Jewelry should be sparing – so it doesn’t accidentally get tangled up when you’re headbanging – but meaningful, so if a beautiful metalhead girl or guy asks you about your skull knuckleduster, you can tell them a deep and impassioned story about how you won it from Lemmy in a poker match. Popular styles include skulls, Thor’s hammers, swords, crosses (both right-way-up and inverted), pentagrams and other religious symbols, and miniature working replicas of medieval torture devices.

A sword at your hip or guitar slung over your shoulder never goes amiss.

Ration pack

Contains a lighter, a drinking horn, a copy of your underground black metal demo (just in case you run into Hellhammer at the local fish & chip shop), an Iron Maiden condom and, oh, twelve boxes of beer.

With the regulation kit assembled, you’re ready for every conceivable metal adventure.

About Steff

Steff Metal (and friends)

Who am I? I’m Steff. Born in New Zealand, raised on a steady diet of metal and out-of-print archaeology books, I’m now a freelance writer, accessible formats producer, and iron maiden.

You can keep up to date with all the metal madness at my Steff Metal blog. I update 4 times a week with reviews, articles, advice and silliness about living the metal lifestyle. And, for alternative biz owners, I run a creative business community for the dark side at Grymm & Epic.

Keep it brutal \m/
Steff

La Carmina and her “latest victim”, Tokyo-based actor / model / stylist Sebastiano Serafini, kick-started 2011… with a blood-drenched Hollywood Invasion! Our Los Angeles trip included photoshoots, TV meetings and hosting Goth parties, such as Bar Sinister New Year’s. But a major highlight was crashing Lip Service headquarters and putting on fangs for a Steampunk Vampire photoshoot.

Our shoot was for Vampyrotic, a magazine to “celebrate our dark sanguinary desires in gorgeously captured photos and video.” We crept into Servitu, a private Los Angeles dungeon, with our mastermind photographer Mich (who took all photos in this post).

But let’s rewind a little bit. We began the day at Lip Service headquarters in downtown Los Angeles. Sebastiano and I were like spooky kids in a candy store: so many clothing samples to try on, from red furry jackets to cage skirts! We met Mickey and Bryn in the red office, and got an exclusive preview of the upcoming designs.

The behind-the-scenes tour made me feel like Alice in Wonderland. Sky-high shelves containing fabric rolls and and boxes of trimmings!

It was impossible to narrow down our clothing choices for the shoot, so we ended up taking several sacks with us (including borrowed top hats and stomper boots). Mich fitted us with vampire teeth, which you first soak in warm water, then press to your canines until they firm up and stay in place.

Servitu Studios was a funhouse of torture equipment, including restraints, medical examination chairs, rusty cages, and a “vacuum bed” that vacuum-packs a person into latex. (Sebastiano: “Should we try?”) We settled on the dark aristocratic chair by the window and filled our wine glasses with blood. Our outfits are mostly coordinated from Lip Service’s Step in Time Steampunk collection.

We changed into Nocturnal Rendezvous and Circuit City garments and climbed to the rooftop. Dusk was falling and the sky was radioactive blue. Perfect for a Power Rangers pose.

Domo arigato gozaimasu to Mich, Mickey, Bryn, Maria and everyone at Lip Service for having us as models. I’ll post more photos from the Steampunk Vampire fashion shoot on La Carmina blog, in addition to scandalous Los Angeles Gothic fashion and party photos… come take a drive-by!

† Dark Wishes †

LA CARMINA

O Canada, my home and native land! Since I’m from Vancouver (West side), Toronto’s Goth scene has always been a source of fascination to me. As Edgar Allan Poe put it in “The Man Who Was All Used Up” –

“The slightest appearance of mystery – of any point I cannot exactly comprehend – puts me at once into a pitiable state of agitation.”

Over the past few years, I became friends with Taeden Hall, designer of a magical clothing label called “Gloomth & the Cult of Melancholy.” (I’m wearing her beautiful pirate coat and Victorian dress in the photos above; more images on my blog.) Gloomth is based in Toronto, and has a cult following among dark fashion lovers. Who better to ask about the Ontario Gothic community? Here’s my chat with Taeden and her friend Laura — editrix of online magazine Morbid Outlook, DJ, and director of tribal fusion bellydance troupe, The Serpentina North Ensemble. 

LA CARMINA: How did you first become interested and involved in Gothic / underground fashion and subcultures in Toronto?

TAEDEN: Honestly, I had never heard the word “gothic” until I was about 17/18 years old, this was before the Internet was widely available. I had no clue that there were people out there that looked and felt like I did. I didn’t really have a name for the style I wore, it was heavily influenced by really bad vampire books and even worse movies. I moved to Toronto officially when I was 18 and was already fascinated by Gothic culture and fashion, so the first thing I did was walk right up to the first “Gothy” girl I saw at my university and made her be my friend. It sounds so lame now but honestly that’s exactly how it happened. I’m a doofus. She and I started going to the local clubs/events and meeting more like-minded people.

LAURA: I’ve been kicking around the Goth scene in the US back when I was a teenager (early 90s); I moved to Toronto over 3 years ago because I feel very at home in this city.

LA CARMINA: Can you tell me how the Gothic scene in Toronto originated and evolved? Are there aspects that are distinct to the scene?

TAEDEN: I read once that a major city is one that has a minimum of 10 full-time Goths. As for the scene developing in Toronto, I think it came about as it did in many North American urban centers – sort of an offshoot of punk and New Wave – from “new romantic” to “Gothic”. Eventually you get enough people feeling the same way and they open clubs and spaces to congregate in – thus the subculture expands. I think Toronto’s “Gothic” scene was really tight-knit for a very long time, the same people running the same events and hosting the same shows. I also think the scene here was really connected to the underground art scene also, which is true of many subcultures.

LAURA: Toronto has been a big EBM town for 10-15 years and there’s a strong cybergoth contingent, although the trad Goth and deathrock scene is making a revival.

LA CARMINA: How would you describe Gothic fashion in Toronto? Which styles, brands, looks etc are popular? Has it changed over the years?

TAEDEN: What’s considered “Gothic” now is nothing like what was considered so when I moved here. I think there’s more of a mainstream influence on the culture and fashion than there has ever been. The internet makes it incredibly easy to find the clothing and the music, which was not the case 10+ years ago. At the clubs you see everything from decked out cyber and fetish kids to casual black-skirt-black-top girls. On the streets it’s definitely less dramatic for the most part, lots of big boots and short skirts, babydoll t-shirts printed with whatever comic/movie/slogan/band/thing.

LAURA: Cybergoth complete with big dreadlocks/plastic tubing hair and platforms is very prominent among the younger generation here. Big boots and short skirts are also a very Toronto look.

LA CARMINA: Can you recommend some Toronto or Ontario-based Gothic clothing brands, designers and shops?

TAEDEN: Artifice clothing is the first that comes to mind, others include Futurstate and shops like Hell’s Belles and Borderline Plus- and of course, us, Gloomth!

LAURA: Designers include Gloomth, Plastik Wrap, and Futurstate, while stores would include Hell’s Belles (formerly Siren) and Borderline.

LA CARMINA: What is the Toronto club scene like?

TAEDEN: The Goth club scene in Toronto is somewhat sparse. There are some really well-attended fetish nights in the city but the “Gothic” club scene mainly involves the same couple of nights at the same places. “The Velvet Underground” (Queen St. West) has a decent night on Thursdays and lots of people attend “Neutral” on Fridays/Saturdays – others include “Nocturne” and “Bovine Sex Club”.

LAURA: Velvet Underground on Thursdays and Neutral on Fridays are great for dancing, but the fashion is very casual. The best dressed can be found at fetish events like Fetish Masquerade and Subspace.

LA CARMINA: What do you predict for the dark fashion / scene in Toronto? Is it growing, changing?

TAEDEN: It’s hard to predict where the scene is going in Toronto. It would be great if people could get some new nights and events going, but it’s always hard to get everyone on the same page and people are notoriously reluctant to try new places. I think “Gothic” style is going to keep being subdivided into a multitude of categories and tribes within those.

LAURA: Definitely. As I mentioned earlier, I think things are coming full circle and the traditional Goth/Goth rock/romantic and deathrock looks and music are being revived and inroduced to a new generation.

Some eloquent final thoughts from Taeden’s anonymous friend…

“The Toronto Goth scene has pretty much evolved as has happened all over the world in to factions. With the internet and especially blogs and tags and Google, there is a need to commodify and name creating sub- and even sub-sub-genres, so there really isn’t a ‘Goth’ scene anymore. The few that call themselves Goths are ‘old school’ and listen to music and dress early 90’s, making them, in a way nostalgia Goths. The steampunk movement has some momentum but they seem to be less about clubbing and music and more about collectables and anime conventions. There is the older or elder Goths that have gone more pagan and taken the Goth aesthetic to a more relaxed almost hippie look with long unkempt hair and flowy skirts. This could come from a natural, healthy evolving — also seeing themselves, their once younger selves parodied and called ‘old school’ must give one a pause.

I think Goth per se is now a term used to jumble together all the misfits in black, a loose term for an aesthetic that was difficult in the first place to put ones finger on. And like any community it’s splintered, bickered and is now mostly people being snarky on blogs, writing rules and worrying too much. I think there is just so much out there, so many books to read, so much art to see, places to discover, you cannot limit yourselves with titles, genres, or rules. Our worldview informs our aesthetic. How you dress is an important expression of who you are as an individual.

John Galliano said, ‘my fashion is storage.’ He is expressing his ideas, his worldview through an informed, intelligent, questioning aesthetic. We are the shapeshifters, the boundary leapers, the black cats seen in the corner of ones eye. I think it’s important to remember that, we are traveling and thinking, not stuck in genres or food courts. We are the custodians of the future, inspiring, not defining, it’s a terrifying business, but we must be fearless.”

Have you experienced the Toronto Goth scene? What do you think?

Interested in Japanese Gothic photos and reports? I blog every day about my adventures in Spookyville on www.lacarmina.com/blog – check it out!

† Dark Wishes †
LA CARMINA

Decadent accouterments for pleasure enthusiasts who feel that historical accuracy is best left to PBS costume dramas and hardcore reenactors. Wearing our vices on our sleeve, we shall issue no apologies for partaking in the many delights of mixing Victoriana with fetishwear. A highly evolved sense of aesthetics, an overtly self absorbed mindset and hint of ill repute are our calling card. We are the fetish aristocracy, if it’s a sin, count us in.

The Duchess

Surrounded by fineries and enveloped in splendor the duchess politely smiles as she takes her afternoon tea.  All pleasantries and proper demeanor she savors the taste of Early Grey, drank pinky up, amongst her fellow well bred ladies of polite society. In her mind’s eye she pictures the looks of horror on their collective prudish faces had they discovered that she was indeed wearing vinyl knickers under her bustled mourning skirt .Such thoughts fill her heart with much glee.

click to view full size

Channel her libertine style in:

Blacklist Core Long Sleeved Ruffle Dress Shirt in the black colorway. The sleek timeless cut makes it the cornerstone of any elegant ensemble. Pair with a black underbust corset or waist cincher to create a flattering silhouette. I opted for a medically inspired cameo corset, but the #83-164 Waist Cincher from Lippy’s Blacklist collection would look simply exquisite paired with the Long Sleeved Ruffle Dress Shirt as well.

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Indulge in the drama and dark romance of Vice’s Duchess de Sade II Victorian Mourning Skirt in the Blood colorway.  Guaranteed to garner many a jealous stare at the next gala. For added oomph layer a crinoline or a hoop skirt under this show stopping garment.*

*I highly recommend doing so due to the length of the skirt. If your tallest boots happen to be stompy 8” platforms that otherwise clash horribly with your outfit, a floor length petticoat will help to camouflage them nicely.

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If Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette movie can substitute The Cure, Siouxsie and the Banshees and New Order for the usual classical and baroque compositions on its soundtrack , then you don’t need to worry about your headwear being an exact replica of a hat you spotted in a televised adaptation of a Charles Dickens novel. I’m not here to teach you history, I’m here to present you with the anatomy of a fabulous get up :)  I happen to think that black hats embellished with feathers, ribbons and fabric roses are fabulous indeed.

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Protect the skin you’re in from the sun’s harmful ultraviolet rays WHILE staying chic by toting a parasol around on all your daylight adventures about town. My preference lies in a black gothic Lolita inspired piece adorned with mini silver crosses, black lace and filigree medallions.

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To score some easy loosely wound romantic curls:

- Apply a small amount of volumizing mousse to your hair.

- Separate hair into 1”-2” sections.

-Starting at 2”-3” away from the scalp begin winding your hair around the barrel of a curling iron.

-Hold curl for 10 to 15 seconds.

-Release curling iron.

-Repeat until you have curled the rest of your hair.

-Spray with enough hair spray to make your hair an official fire hazard

-Resist touching!

The Dandyette

The dandyette wears what she pleases unrestrained by gender roles, societal norms or the opinion of envious naysayers who secretly wish they were her. Quoting Wilde and Bauldelaire in between sips of absinthe, she transforms the criticism of those with a most unfortunate fashion sense into pure poetry.  Arrogance suits her like a well tailored coat. To cross her is to commit social suicide.

Revel in the flavor of dandy candy in:

Menswear inspired elegance with a distinct feminine feel is the dandyette’s trademark look. Flirt with androgyny without the fear of looking like your Fourth Grade PE teacher by layering a Black Tales White Lies Tattle Tale Victorian Crop Jacket in the ivory/black colorway over the Dusk ‘Till Dawn Stretch Poplin Tuxedo Ruffle Top also in the ivory/black colorway. Both by Blacklist. Avoid any potential “matador” or “circus ringmaster” references by coupling with a plain black waist cincher of your choice. Yet again the #83-164 Waist Cincher from Blacklist would be most suiting.

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If the boobs weren’t a dead giveaway, combining the above mentioned top and jacket with statement making lace trimmed black PVC bloomers won’t let the boys forget that you’re still a girl under all their clothes. Not even for a second.

(Bloomers made with DIY love by my roommate Melanie)

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White socks like these would make the Dandy Highwayman himself, Adam Ant, very very proud. Simple black PVC platforms bring the whole ensemble home.

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Black top hats make everything fine and dandy.

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A sleek understated ponytail won’t upstage your fanciful attire.

The Magic is in the Makeup

General Prep Work

You will need:

Moisturizer ,Primer , Concealer, Liquid Foundation, Foundation Brush, Translucent Powder, Powder brush

Wash your face with a cleanser formulated especially for your skin type. Rinse thoroughly and pat dry with a soft cloth. Prep your skin with moisturizer before applying concealer in order to ensure a smoother, flake free application.  Before proceeding any further allow your skin to properly absorb the moisturizer. This should take about 10 minutes. Since foundation worn alone often has a nasty habit of settling in the fine lines around your mouth, near your eyes and on your forehead, I highly recommend using a primer after you’ve moisturized your face. Utilizing a small amount of primer helps to fill in unflattering expression lines, pores and scars, thus allowing foundation to actually do its job! Nix blemishes and skin discoloration by gently patting concealer over the trouble area. Follow by blending with your ring finger.

Apply a liquid foundation that best matches your skin tone to your face and neck with a foundation brush (A full dome shaped brush works beautifully). Start by applying small dots in the center of your face and then moving outward]. Set everything in place by finishing off with a thin coat of translucent powder.  Use a full, round shaped powder brush for optimal results.

Prep your lids with eyeshadow primer, whose job is to neutralize the colour of your lids which in turn makes for brighter more vibrant shadow. It also prevents said shadow from creasing.

The Duchess

Smoky eyes for a blue blood girl

Eyes:

You will need:

Eyeshadow primer, Black eyeliner, Matte black eyeshadow,  Pressed brown eyeshadow,  Pressed steel gray eyeshadow, Pressed pearly white eyeshadow, Eyeshadow brush with a round/tapered edge, Blending brush, Eyelash curler, Black mascara

Using a brush with a round/tapered edge swipe some matte black eyeshadow starting at the inner corner of your eye all the way to your outer corner. This should form a semi thick solid black line. Try to keep the line as close to your lashes as possible. It need not be super precise. We shall blend our asses off later. See Figure 1.

Figure 1

Starting directly above the line of black eye shadow that you’ve just applied, add some pressed brown shadow. Fill in the entire surface of the lid with the brown shade right up to your crease. Blend some steel gray eyeshadow to the outer crease of your eye and bring it down to on the outer corner of your eyelid. The steel gray shadow you just added should be in the shape of the letter “V”. If you shave and draw your brows on you can extend the shadow past your crease and onto the lower part of your browbone, since you obviously have more room to work with. Clean that blending brush and after you’ve done so, highlight your browbone with a healthy dose of pearly white eyeshadow.

Blend, blend, blend and blend some more!

Grab your trusty black kohl and line your bottom lid starting from the outer corner of your eye, slowly making your way toward the inner corner. Most of the color should be concentrated in the outer corner. Personally, I prefer to put on eyeliner after eyeshadow and before mascara. Curl your eyelashes with an eyelash curler and top off with 2 coats of black mascara.

Face:

You will need:

Blush brush, Peachy pink blush, Bronzer

Let’s make those cheekbones pop! Swipe some pressed bronzer  onto your blush brush. Starting mid-cheek, going towards your ear apply the bronzer into the hollows of your cheeks using short, up-and-down vertical strokes. Darker shades will give the illusion of the hollows of your cheeks receding. Now using the same technique add a peachy pink blush to the apples of your cheeks, which will cause them to protrude. Use translucent powder to blend between the two colors in order to avoid obvious lines.

Lips:

You will need:

Flesh toned lip liner, Shimmering light pink lip plumping gloss

Filling in your entire lip area prevents your lip color from fading and feathering throughout the course of your drunken debauchery filled nights. Use a flesh toned lip liner to fill in your lips starting at the center of your natural lip line and moving toward the outer corners. Shimmering light pink lips balance out the heaviness of the eyes. Beginning in the center of your upper lip, gently press the gloss wand into the flesh of your lip and then proceed to roll it over the entire top lip area, working toward the edges. See Figure 2.

Figure 2

Repeat the process on your bottom lip. To ensure that your gloss sticks to your mouth and not your teeth put your index finger in your mouth, then proceed to slide it out slowly with your mouth still closed. This will remove any excess lip color.

The Dandyette

Play up your eyes with “gender neutrals”.

Eyes:

You will need:

Espresso eyeshadow , Bronze eyeshadow, Frosty white (brow bone highlight)
Black eyeliner kohl (above lashes), Eyelash curler, Black mascara (lash), Eyeshadow brush with a round/tapered edge, Blending brush,

With the help of a black kohl eyeliner, line your entire upper lid stopping right at the outer corner. Stay as close to the lashline as you can and for the love of all things holy do not wing out said liner. You might be tempted to, but JUST DON’T DO IT! See Figure 3.

Figure 3

Fill in the entire surface of the lid with an espresso eyeshadow shade right up to your crease using an eyeshadow brush with a round/tapered edge.  Follow up with just a hint of bronze eyeshadow added to the outer crease of your eye with aid of a blending brush.  Clean your trusty blending brush. Add a small amount of a frosty white eyeshadow to your browbone.. Curl your eyelashes with an eyelash curler and top off with 2 coats of black mascara. See Figure 4.

Figure 4

Lips:

You will need:

Nude lip gloss

Too cool for lipliner, our heroine chooses a nude lip. See Figure 5

Figure 5

And so the Duchess and the Dandyette spent their days strolling about the gardens as if they owned place.

Well, they sort of did.

After the arsenic lace tea party incident anyway…

You see the Duke did not think to make her sign a prenup.

Credits:

Photography:

Aaron Kondziela

http://aaronkondziela.com

Models:

The Duchess –Vanity Kills

http://www.modelmayhem.com/vanitykills

The Dandyette-Meagan Kyla

http://www.modelmayhem.com/1004843

Location:

Buffalo and Erie County Botanical Gardens

http://www.buffalogardens.com

And to all a good night!

<3

Vanity Kills